South. South. South. This morning National Geographic Orion navigates south through the ice along the Antarctic Peninsula toward the Antarctic Circle. This imaginary line of latitude lies at 66.5˚ south of the equator where, because the Earth is titled on its axis, the southern polar region is bathed in 24 hours of sunlight at the austral summer solstice. With the extreme ice conditions this time of year, it was a gamble to push this far south, but in full expedition mode the rewards are great.

The first reward was beer and hot dogs served on the café deck as we crossed the circle. It was a great celebration complete with music, and even some dancing, as the ship passed sculpted icebergs.

Then, after lunch (eating is optional), we made a landing on Detaille Island in Lallemand Fjord, a historic site where the British Antarctic Survey Station W was located during the late 1950’s. Abandoned in 1959 because of severe ice conditions, the buildings are in great shape, a virtual time capsule providing a glimpse of what life was like at a remote research station in this frozen wilderness. The only residents living on the island today is a large colony of Adélie penguins. Zodiac cruises around the island offered great views of this Antarctic species that breeds farther south than any other penguin.

Back on board for cocktails and recap, our day was not yet over. As dinner was being served National Geographic Orion navigated through the pack ice until it encountered an area of fast ice, solid sea ice still frozen to the shoreline. With great skill, the Captain pushed the ship into the ice repeatedly until we were safely parked. To our surprise, the gangway was lowered so that we could all go for a walk on the ice. Amazing to think of this frozen seawater 2-3 meters thick, formed during the winter, will soon be gone for the summer. Once on the ice, large show flakes started to fall, a true Antarctic experience.

And to cap off the day, we toasted Earnest Shackleton in the warmth of the Lounge, in honor of his ship, the Endurance, which was crushed by the ice just over 100 years ago in October 1915. We can only imagine what it must have been like to be marooned on the ice for months, with little hope of rescue. In contrast, a shot of Shackleton whiskey and a chocolate on our pillow waited for us on board this modern, state-of-the-art expedition. Not to mention the hot shower. Life is good…