This morning we awoke in Antarctic Sound, just to the northeastern end of the Antarctic Peninsula. It did not take long before we spotted some of the tabular icebergs that this area is known for. The beautiful flat-topped bergs have broken off ice shelves and worked their way out of the ice filled Weddell Sea.
After breakfast the captain took us exploring into Active Sound—named for the first whaling ship to sail through this passage in 1892, reminding us of the activities that went on here over 120 years ago. From there we went into Yalour Sound.
The highlight of the morning explorations was something that is not always seen. We came upon a group of feeding penguins that numbered well over 1000. A wall of penguins porpoising along in the water was quite a sight and sound. Add to this a collection of small icebergs and five to ten humpback whales and you have the recipe for lots of excitement and an unforgettable experience.
In the afternoon we landed on the continent at Brown Bluff. It was hard to know where to look. In one direction we had stunning ice sculpture scenery and in another direction the high volcanic cliffs that give this place its name, and finally along the beach penguins everywhere. We had two of the brushtail species here—the Adélies and the gentoos. Adélies, looking formal in their crisp black and white outfits had more of the real estate. Their colony went on as far as the eye could see. The Adélie chicks were about a month old and gathered in crèches. Although they were still adorable, their downy coats were no longer looking new and fluffy, instead a bit scruffy. Some of them were just starting to molt and ready for some cleaner feathers.
The gentoos, slightly bigger with white “earmuffs” and orange bills were on the fringes of the colony in their own small groups. Their chicks, only a couple of weeks old, were much smaller and still attended at the nest by one parent.
It is fascinating to see the ongoing activities in the colony. Along the water’s edge there is a constant procession of penguins on their daily commute—some going out to sea to feed and others on their way back to feed their hungry chicks. It was fun to just be quiet, sit and watch, and take in this busy yet peaceful scene.
Today was an amazing and full day. For many of us, our seventh continent! For all of us it was scenic splendor, amazing wildlife, and the awe that comes with seeing a place this wild!
