We awoke after a very pleasant calm night anchored in Ensenada Grande. Before breakfast we weighed anchor and headed north to Los Islotes. These islets are small and isolated enough to be a favorite spot for marine mammals and birds. After breakfast we hopped into rubber boats for a close look at them. We found brown boobies staring at us from the cliffs, and blue-footed boobies perched in higher spots. Pelicans crowded broken craggy slopes and yellow-footed gulls stalked the tideline. But best of all were the sea lions. About 150 sea lions live here throughout the year, their ranks doubled during the breeding season. We saw them sprawled over the rocks like piles of dirty laundry, abandoned to relaxation. While sea lions love company, and often use each other as pillows or cushions, they seem to take umbrage at being jostled. Their annoyance, though rarely very serious, is always loudly expressed.
Soon we were able to meet the ‘lions on their own terms. Wearing snorkel gear, we slipped into the water. Though ungainly on land, sea lions are marvelously adept in the sea. We saw them whip by at high speed, hang upside-down in complete comfort, or writhe in elegant contortions. Only problem is… they’re bored. Luckily, people like us come by regularly to entertain the ‘lions. It’s obvious they enjoy playing with us, making mock-charges, tugging on our snorkel gear, and showing us how desperately clumsy we are beneath the waves. Like a barrel full of monkeys mixed in brine with frisky puppies, sea lions are a ton of fun.
After lunch we motored to Isla San Francisco. Half-moon Bay is beautifully protected and has a bright white beach. Many walked across the narrow part of the island to explore tidepools. Here, with our naturalists, we prowled in the shallows like a gang of raccoons, looking for oozy or spiny creatures to examine. Others followed Michelle for another bout of peak-bagging. Most returned for watersports, skimming over the bay by kayak or paddleboard.
After a tasty dinner we returned to the beach. With clear skies and a late-rising moon, the stars were rich and intricate. Michael Nolan described some of the bright constellations.
From the depths to the heavens, Baja California is beautiful, and it was great to share in its sensory bounty.
