Krista Rossow, National Geographic Photography Expert
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Daily Expedition
Reports
10 Mar 2018
Franklin Bay and Cánepa Fjord, Staten Island, 3/10/2018, National Geographic Orion
Aboard the
National Geographic Orion
Antarctica
After a quiet night navigating east along the Beagle Channel, we entered – during the early hours of the morning – the waters of the Lemaire Strait on our way to Staten Island. This body of water with its very strong currents separate the main Island of Tierra del Fuego from la Isla de los Estados.
It was a beautiful crisp morning, and the sunrise was breathtaking. As the light became stronger we were able to enjoy the many seabirds flying about the ship: sooty shearwaters, southern giant petrels, black-browed albatross and our first views of rockhopper penguins.
The morning was spent ashore with opportunities to enjoy various walks and also take a Zodiac cruise.
The ship then repositioned over lunch time to Capitán Bahía Cánepa, along the southern coastline, where we were able to enjoy some dramatic landscapes as well as some close encounters with South American sea lions and fur seals, as well as a number of different birds.
Edward Shaw has travelled widely as a naturalist and guide. For the past 29 years he has lived with his family in northwestern Patagonia, initially working as a teacher and subsequently working in community projects before returning to expedition shi...
For more than a decade, Krista Rossow has worked as a photographer, photo editor, and educator for National Geographic. She began her career as a photo editor at National Geographic Traveler magazine, where she shaped compelling stories from world-cl...
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A storm system redirected National Geographic Explorer to dock in Ushuaia one day earlier than anticipated at the beginning of the trip. Our last day together was spent touring the countryside of Ushuaia via buses organized by our wonderful team of agents based in the area. These agents provided a day full of breathtaking landscapes and an assortment of weather patterns. The buses served as a comfortable transport to two different lakes, Lake Escondido and Lake Fagnano. Lake Escondido is also known as Hidden Lake. It earned this name by often being covered in a thick layer of fog that conceals its location. We were lucky the winds were strong enough to provide us with a view at the photo stop alongside the road. At Lake Fagnano, our guests were invited to stroll along the marsh to look for birds. After our visits to the lakes, we were escorted to the top of Ushuaia, giving us a great view for our lunch before returning to the ship. A great day of forest views, snow, and peat bogs.
It takes almost two full days to transit from South Georgia to
the Falkland Islands archipelago. Onboard National Geographic Explorer ,
this time can be occupied in many different ways. For some it was a time to
catch up on the thousands of images captured while exploring the sub-Antarctic
Island of South Georgia. While at South Georgia, we were so occupied with our
daily activities that many had not even peeked at what their photos had
captured. Most people were quite happy with their results, and anxious to see
what other guests had accomplished photographically. A full slate of shipboard presentations were also available, for
people to enjoy and enhance their learning about the areas through which we’re traveling. Others spent time on the Bridge, checking on our progress across the Scotia Sea. Some ventured out on deck to the bow, or the aft sundeck, to watch or photograph the seabirds passing by. All in all, it was a delightful day at sea. We’re looking forward
to the Falkland Islands ahead.
South Georgia is now far behind us as we make our way across the vast expanse of the Southern Ocean towards our next destination, the Falklands. The sky is grey, the sea is grey, but memories of our days in South Georgia blaze with colour. Today is a day for reflection on all we have seen and learned, and for preparation for the days to come. Our first presentation of the day was a thought-provoking account from geologist Michael Jackson on the scientific basis behind climate change. We learned about the pioneering experiments of early scientists that led towards a modern understanding of how and why climate is changing, and the critical role of the Polar Regions. National Geographic Explorer ploughed on. Soon, changing air and water temperatures in addition to looming fog told us that we were crossing the Convergence (or the Antarctic Polar Front), passing from the cold waters of the Southern Ocean to the slightly warmer conditions of the Southern Atlantic. Next, naturalist Madalena Patacho gave a sparkling presentation about ‘The Ocean.’ She took us from the very creation of the earth itself and its first oceans, to the 11,000-metre depth of the Mariana Trench, around the world’s swirling warm and cold currents, to the final opening of the Southern Ocean. All of this creates a massive, unrestricted transport of water in the Antarctic Circumpolar Current, which is so important for the concentration of wildlife that thrives in this region. National Geographic photographer Camille Seaman concluded with a surprising window into her passion for knitting, a skill originally dominated by men, from its origins in the Middle East to its spread throughout Europe in the Middle Ages. Knitting’s excellent qualities were much appreciated by the polar explorers of the Heroic Age and by sailors everywhere, as her images showed. The ship pressed onward throughout the day. At times, the ocean swell was quite impressive, but National Geographic Explorer handles it all comfortably. At evening recap, our screens in the lounge were bright with undersea specialist Brett Garner’s footage of gliding king penguins.
