After seeing a green flash on a setting sun in Bonaire, a few rose to try to see one on sunrise. While we were unsuccessful with the green flash we were successful with red-footed boobies. As the Caledonian Star maneuvered into its anchorage at Barlovento, the windward most island of the Las Aves group, we watched skein upon skein of red-footed boobies sail by us on their way to the mangrove swamp where they nested. This was our destination. Soon we were away for a Zodiac cruise to see the only tree-nesting booby.

Barlovento lies 60 miles off the Venezuelan coast and is visited only by an occasional fisherman or yachtsman, so its isolation has protected one of the major nesting sites of red-footed boobies in the whole of the Caribbean. As we drove among the mangroves we also spotted other species that have found this island suitable: mangrove warblers, green herons and frigatebirds. The latter soar high, waiting for the boobies to return and then attacking, forcing them to regurgitate their food. The frigates, so aptly named, are often agile enough to catch the stolen food before it hits the water.

Other predators live here as well. Peregrine falcons are often spotted and this time was no exception. And in the afternoon, we snorkeled and swam. Barlovento is very close to paradise. Sometimes you set out looking for one thing and you end up finding another. Life is full of surprises and this trip across the Lower Caribbean has been no exception.