Horta, Faial

Today we had the opportunity to explore the Island of Faial. During the morning we drove out of the city of Horta to Ponta dos Capelinhos, the site of a large eruption in 1957-58. A small farming and fishing community once occupied this area. But the town now lies beneath an ash covered hillside. Along the road and trails you could see how over time the winds had unearthed old roof tiles and bricks from the seaside town that once thrived here. One of the most incredible realizations of the morning was the idea that we had active volcanism right beneath our feet.

During the afternoon we were free to explore on our own. Some of us visited the Whale Factory Museum. In the 1940’s, the Azores was an important provider of sperm whale oil for the world. In fact, the factory was designed and financed by a German company to encourage Horta to favor the German oil needs over other nations. However, the Azores remained neutral during World War II and sold to any interested country.

Ironically, the small harbor outside the factory where sperm whales were once towed after capture for processing, is now a popular beach and swimming area. Some folks from the ship joined locals for an afternoon dip in the refreshing crystal blue waters.

One of the most beautiful legacies of whaling is scrimshaw. Between watches, particularly on the long journey home, crewmen spent their time “scrimshandering” or carving whalebone and teeth into tools and trinkets. Teeth were especially prized and were carved with detailed scenes of whales and sailing ships. Using a sail needle or a knife, a scene was scratched into the surface of the tooth. Then boot black, soot or ink was rubbed into the design to make the scrimshaw come to life. Just before dinner, John Van Opstal (see above photo) visited our ship to demonstrate this disappearing art form.