Isabela
Urbina Bay is an unusual place. In 1954 a stretch of over a kilometer of the shoreline was instantaneously uplifted by several meters! Those who did the two-mile hike this morning observed several large coral heads that are now high and dry, slowly deteriorating in the hot sun these 60 + years, since they were pushed out of the sea when lava shifted deep underground.
The weather was hot and humid as we set off on our choice of a long walk at a fast or intermediate pace, or a shorter, slower walk. We landed in our fleet of Zodiacs on a steep black sand beach where sea turtles have been nesting these last four months. Buried two feet under the sand, large clutches of turtle eggs are incubating and after approximately 60 days, the hatchings will emerge and dash to the sea. One set of tracks was very fresh and obviously from a female had nested last night. A young Galápagos hawk landed on the beach crest and let us get very close to take his picture.
All those who hiked today—whether they went long or short, and at a fast or moderate pace – were well rewarded for their efforts. There were at least a dozen giant tortoises in the vicinity of the trails and just as many big, bright yellow land iguanas. Some of the tortoises were huge, ancient males—probably over one hundred years old. We also saw a couple much smaller tortoises that I estimated were only in their twenties…
A delicious swim from the beach, or a rapid return to the ship’s refreshing air conditioning, was in order after the hot walk. As soon as we had all returned to the ship, the captain hauled up our anchor and we headed north along the western shore of Isabela Island. After a revitalizing lunch and siesta we were ready for the afternoon’s options. There were two rounds of kayakers who paddled slowly along the tuff shore of Tagus Cove. Cormorants, penguins, sea lions, sea turtles, and diving blue-footed boobies entertained us as we went. Three Zodiacs of snorkelers swam with these same fearless creatures. And in spite of greenish turbid water, the snorkelers got great looks at feeding cormorants and penguins and several sea turtles gliding gracefully below them.
Naturalist Jean led a group of hikers up to the rim above a carter lake and around it for a fabulous view of the National Geographic Islander at anchor far below in Tagus Cove. Hiking among the leafy green palo santo trees and listening to the singing Darwin finches gave a feeling of mid-summer. We were once again lucky to have successfully dodged the rains! As the afternoon began to cool off, naturalist Christian took a small group of guests out for a Zodiac ride with our panguero Ricky. Tonight we sail before dinner back across the equator and then east to the central island of Santiago. It is hard to imagine what new sights, sounds and experiences we may have tomorrow that could possibly top all the excitement of today!
