Puerto Gato, Baja California Sur, Mexico

In stark contrast to the high winds and waves of a few days past, this morning emerged softly on land and sea from the dark time of sleep. Stunningly beautiful early morning light on the mountains of the Baja Peninsula and a mirror-like sea greeted us along with a school of common dolphins. About 1/3 of this group of about 30 dolphins were juveniles and some were newborns—just about bathtub toy size. As they surfaced through the glassy water their reflections shown on the surface and mixed with the reds and yellows of the hillside reflections. All this before breakfast!

We spent our morning at Puerto Gato, a magnificent half moon cove along the Baja Peninsula bookended by spectacular fossilized hills of red-rock sand dunes. Once ashore, aerobic, long, medium and short hikes were available with our naturalists as well as a kayak opportunity in the tranquil and stunningly beautiful bay. There was a choir of birds singing and calling in the arroyo behind the cove and many of us had the pleasure of seeing some unusual species—a gray thrasher that is endemic to the southern Baja Peninsula and a curve-billed thrasher which is not normally seen in Baja California—as well as the more common gila woodpeckers, gray flycatchers, cactus wrens, verdins, cardinals and ash-throated flycatchers. The splendid crystal clear vista of the Sierra de la Giganta mountains to the west formed the backdrop for this wonderful morning exploring along the Baja coast.

All aboard for a fabulous BBQ lunch on deck in the warm sunshine, perhaps a quick nap and then back into the Zodiacs for a short ride to the snorkel boat anchored near the rocky north point of the cove. Warm water, good visibility and lots of colorful fish greeted us as we explored the underwater world. While in the upper world, the huge spout of a blue whale was spotted from the snorkel boat.

Soon we were all back aboard the National Geographic Sea Lion and headed toward the place where the blue whale had last sounded. Again, the huge spout and this time followed by a great view of the body of this gigantic animal and finally its enormous flukes lifted high out of the water as it sounded once again. Ten minutes later, the whale was on the surface to blow, roll and throw its mighty flukes high into the clear, warm Baja air. After a number of series of blows and soundings, we left the whale to its whale life and headed south toward a vast school of common dolphins that we had seen earlier passing well offshore.

We spent yet another hour cruising among these fabulous dolphins, as they were leaping and rolling and seeming to frolic with the pure joy of life in the late afternoon sun.

What a way to end our day and our week of incredible experiences in one of the world’s little known treasures, the Sea of Cortez.