Floreana Island

Postcards and penguins were part of the scene this morning at the famous Post Office Barrel as the sun rose in a clear sky. The sun was shining and tempting us into the blue waters off Champion.

We arrived at the islet of Champion after breakfast, and very soon the intrepid snorkelers were heading off to slide into crystal clear waters filled with angelfish, chubs, salemas, Creole fish and many, many more. The glass bottom boat motored over the same schools, and finally the sea lions we had so hoped for made their appearance. Under us, around us, we could see with startling clarity the bubbles streaming from their noses, occasionally from their mouths as they opened them on approach during their dashes. Obviously they were laughing at us as we attempted to imitate their pirouettes under water, in a humanly ungainly fashion.

John Francis from the Nation Geographic Society gave us a wonderful presentation before lunch, an insider’s view of what it is like to study pinnepeds on remote islands. Our own islands beckoned us yet again to launch ourselves into the deep, and this time it was “Devil’s Crown,” an intimidating volcanic feature off the northern shore of Floreana Island. As an alternative to snorkeling, kayakers set off among the tranquil islets and lagoons along the coast to have encounters with turtles, sea lions and another penguin. Beach-goers and players were building sandcastles on the nearby “green sand” beach of Point Cormorant.

We were calmly watching the elegant forms of flamingos feeding in the rose-colored waters of the salt-water lagoons when suddenly our plans changed. A radio message from the Polaris bridge informed us of the presence of whales close by. In true expedition style we streamed back to our landing beach and jumped into the Zodiacs. The whales had moved a considerable distance away, but everyone was “gung-ho” about following them out, and perseverance was rewarded by sightings, some very close, of a mother and calf Bryde’s whale.

As sunset closed the day, we returned home to share our excitement, dinner and recap, marvelling that the islands had once more surprised us in a grand fashion.