Southeast Alaska is unique in its interconnection of forest and ocean. Ancient Sitka spruce and western hemlock forests cover hillsides that were buried under glacial ice a mere 12,000 years ago. The proximity of the Gulf of Alaska means abundant rainfall -- in some areas over 200 inches annually -- and the vegetation thrives. So dry weather is a joy, sunshine is delightful and a five-alarm sunset is cause for celebration.
Today we awoke to glassy calm water at Pinta Rocks, disturbed only by the schooling herring. We spent our morning ashore at Saginaw Bay, dividing our attention between 250 million-year old fossils, 500-year old spruces and hermit crabs so young they were almost invisible. We spent the afternoon cruising the waters of Frederick Sound and Chatham Strait, in the presence of humpback whales and Dall's porpoises. Just before sleep we watched the peaks of Baranof Island blush with alpenglow…