Pavlof Harbor and Basket Bay

There are places to which one travels to see a particular animal or plant. Several days of our trip had passed, and no bears. This changed drastically today at Pavlof Harbor, where we had the unique opportunity of watching several bears, all brown. The large monsters living in coastal Alaska are called browns, while the smaller ones of the same species that inhabit the higher lands of Canada are called grizzlies. However, they are the exact same species. Large, because during thousands of generations they have fed, nay, gorged, on salmon every late summer and fall of their lives. This river is known as a real salmon stream, populated and preferred by coho and pinks alike. When we arrived, we were able to see a sow with two cubs, a lonely adult (probably male), and a younger animal. All except the young animal took off into the woods, supposedly to watch us till we left, and they could continue with their preferred activity: eating. So we had the opportunity of watching this animal observing the waters for signs of a big, delicious salmon moving upstream, but as it was low tide, there were probably very few animals.

Later on, after lunch and many nautical miles, we arrived at Basket Bay, where we could see the swathes of forest that had been logged, probably about 50 years ago. Here we had a series of Zodiac rides along parts of the Bay, ending with a surprise visit to a dark, humid grotto at the end of the cove. Old limestone in the grotto was perforated running water over time, today forming a lovely, cool bridge. As soon as one crossed it, one became exposed to a series of interesting plants with flowers, such as asters, blue bells, elderberry, columbines and Grass of Parnassus.What a day!