Los Islotes and Espiritu-Santo

Sunrise was over the “Vermillion Sea” as we approached Los Islotes north of Isla Partida. A few low clouds on the horizon prevented a green flash as the bright orb popped up. The sea, however, was about as calm as we could have wished, and the sharp eyes of staff and bridge officers soon spotted splashes ahead. They were sporatic and spread out, but plentiful. They were dozens of mobula rays (miniature manta rays) leaping out of the water. Some did summersaults, others flapped their wings like crazy as if intensely desirous of flying through air as they do through water. We watched for a good long while before the call of breakfast and future plans led us back to our anchorage.

Zodiac rides around the rocky islets occupied us for the rest of the morning; over 400 California sea lions call this home, and individuals of all ages could be found on any surface more or less large enough to hold them. Their rock-climbing abilities were to be admired, as many seemed to be balanced on pinnacles several yards above the sea surface. Males, females and adolescent sea lions claimed our attention, as well as a nesting great blue heron. A pair of peregrine falcons have laid claim to a small niche high up, though no young are visible just yet. Perhaps it was the male who dropped in with a food offering while we were watching, but hard to tell.

The snorkeling was exciting. First time out in the Gulf of California, and in-your-face-sea-lions to say the least. An underwater territorial dispute between subadult males was noisy, but the winners were the “teenagers” with free time on their flippers and all the energy of the young for play. Up to the last minute, they stayed with us, investigating the underside of the Zodiacs, surely with thoughts of how to turn the large rubber object to their advantage. Mostly too fast, one showed google-eyes as he cruised past me filling the frame of my camera, but too close and quick to include the nose and whiskers.

The afternoon on Espiritu-Santo Island was one of slow enjoyment. Preference was given to kayaking, birding, hiking, beach combing and even a bit of snorkeling, all ending in a barbecue dinner put on for us by the galley and hotel crew. As we returned home leaving a trail of bioluminescence in our wake, recalling Adrian’s Creation Story in the light of the bonfire, Orion in his starry form shone overhead with the brightness unique to wilderness and open ocean spaces.