After an action-packed day filled with otter-watching, kayaking in open ocean swell, and walking under eagle nests, we settled down to what we assumed would be a relaxing meal. But alas! We were cruising in whale-rich waters. Icy Strait is one of the Inside Passage's rare connections to the open ocean. Strong winter waves and daily currents stir this region into a rich biotic cauldron. We could tell as much from our kayaks, as the water danced with minute free-swimming snails, called sea-butterflies, and fishing birds perched and floated everywhere. But mightiest of the region's swimmers are the humpback whales. At the sudden close appearance of a pair at dinner, all thoughts of our meal were forgotten. Many jockeyed for position at the windows, others sprang for their cameras and an outside view. One whale raised its long pectoral flipper, as if in waving salute. Then both lay at the surface, puffing mightily and arching their backs. Flukes appeared, often the sign of a deep dive, but the whales quickly rose again. After some time savoring this scene, we trickled back to our seats. The ship proceeded on, and we resumed our meal, confident that, now below, the whales were our dining companions.
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