Pavlof Harbor
The plan to arrive at Pavlof Harbor during the morning was foiled by humpback whales. Fortunately, the Sea Lion is not always tied to rigid schedules, so we stayed to enjoy these marine mammals and postponed the outings ashore until later in the day. Humpbacks capture herring and other small fish in several ways. The most impressive of these is cooperative bubblenet feeding. Not only were we lucky enough to see this incredible behavior, but we did so on calm, smooth water with no rain in sight. Seven individuals surfaced to replenish their oxygen stores, then fluked one after another to search for food. In this foraging technique, one animal releases a trail of bubbles in a big circle well beneath the surface. The curtain of rising bubbles scares and concentrates prey. Flashing the long pectoral flippers and vocalizing further confuses the fish. With the hydrophone lowered, we listened carefully for the wavering humming that cued us to ready our cameras. As the whales ascend, the intensity of the sound increases. In a display better than any Fourth of July fireworks, an explosion of whales lunged from the water, immense mouths agape, accordion pleats distended and throats stretched open. Silvery fish desperately leapt clear of the water attempting to escape. It is fascinating just to see a wild whale, but watching this group activity was remarkable. Following outstanding views of these magnificent creatures, we finally pulled away and continued towards Pavlof Harbor.
Just before the anchor dropped, a brown bear sow and her two cubs appeared on shore. They grazed unconcerned along the meadow margin between sea and forest, sometimes disappearing into the trees, then emerging again into tall grass. Brown bears are true symbols of wilderness, and it was exciting to know that this remote spot where such wild creatures roamed was the place that we would soon be walking.
Throughout the afternoon we explored this beautiful area. There were opportunities to follow a stream to a waterfall and even farther to a lovely lake bordered by luxuriant vegetation. Kayakers took off to discover a water-level view of the surroundings, and Zodiac cruisers skirted the water’s edge, spotting a bald eagle and its nest.
There were plans for late-night fireworks near the town of Gustavus, but few were up near midnight to celebrate. Nevertheless, there had been much to be grateful for this day, and we slept soundly in anticipation of tomorrow’s adventures in Glacier Bay.
The plan to arrive at Pavlof Harbor during the morning was foiled by humpback whales. Fortunately, the Sea Lion is not always tied to rigid schedules, so we stayed to enjoy these marine mammals and postponed the outings ashore until later in the day. Humpbacks capture herring and other small fish in several ways. The most impressive of these is cooperative bubblenet feeding. Not only were we lucky enough to see this incredible behavior, but we did so on calm, smooth water with no rain in sight. Seven individuals surfaced to replenish their oxygen stores, then fluked one after another to search for food. In this foraging technique, one animal releases a trail of bubbles in a big circle well beneath the surface. The curtain of rising bubbles scares and concentrates prey. Flashing the long pectoral flippers and vocalizing further confuses the fish. With the hydrophone lowered, we listened carefully for the wavering humming that cued us to ready our cameras. As the whales ascend, the intensity of the sound increases. In a display better than any Fourth of July fireworks, an explosion of whales lunged from the water, immense mouths agape, accordion pleats distended and throats stretched open. Silvery fish desperately leapt clear of the water attempting to escape. It is fascinating just to see a wild whale, but watching this group activity was remarkable. Following outstanding views of these magnificent creatures, we finally pulled away and continued towards Pavlof Harbor.
Just before the anchor dropped, a brown bear sow and her two cubs appeared on shore. They grazed unconcerned along the meadow margin between sea and forest, sometimes disappearing into the trees, then emerging again into tall grass. Brown bears are true symbols of wilderness, and it was exciting to know that this remote spot where such wild creatures roamed was the place that we would soon be walking.
Throughout the afternoon we explored this beautiful area. There were opportunities to follow a stream to a waterfall and even farther to a lovely lake bordered by luxuriant vegetation. Kayakers took off to discover a water-level view of the surroundings, and Zodiac cruisers skirted the water’s edge, spotting a bald eagle and its nest.
There were plans for late-night fireworks near the town of Gustavus, but few were up near midnight to celebrate. Nevertheless, there had been much to be grateful for this day, and we slept soundly in anticipation of tomorrow’s adventures in Glacier Bay.
