Fury and Hecla Strait: With a Little Help From Our Friends
For the final approach to Fury and Hecla Strait on the southwest corner of Baffin Island, we needed some assistance. The strait is the gateway to Foxe Basin, which we are keen to explore, but getting there will take some grit. Multi-year sea ice has closed in on the opening to these narrows. Though our ship, National Geographic Explorer, is strong and able, this ice is too much for her to go alone. Fortunately, we could call in a Canadian Ice Escort (for free!), and we did.
The Pierre Radisson - a 100-metre icebreaker painted bright red and white - arrived at 9:00am this morning, and an hour later, Jim Napoli (our video chronicler) and I were aboard. The Pierre Radisson drove out into the ice, and Explorer followed in her path. As we passed floe after floe, the crew invited Jim and I to explore the ship and take as many pictures as we liked. We were told we would be home to Explorer by lunch, but it didn't work out that way. I started to wonder how long our visit would be when they gave us a cabin and pointed out the soap and towels.
Navigation officer Laurent Ide gave us a thorough safety briefing that involved a survival suit demonstration, as well as a tour of the infirmary, officer's mess, stores area, steering compartment, galley, bar and helicopter hanger. Captain Claude LaFrance and Chief Officer Olivier Tremblay answered all of our questions and showed us how they use ice charts, radar and years of experience to pick a route through the ice.
We soon reached an area where 80% of the water was closed in by hard, multi-year sea ice. The Pierre Radisson skated up over block after block and crushed them all with her weight before pulverizing remaining ice with her giant brass propellers. Soon after that, the route became difficult to find and the captain deployed the ship's helicopter. The helicopter pilot and the chief officer headed out with an aeronautical chart, GPS and digital camera to find the best route forward. Jim was thrilled to be able to attach his GoPro camera to the front of the little chopper.
As the hours passed, I kept heading to the aft deck of the Pierre Radisson where I could look back at Explorer following in our wake. I felt a twinge of homesickness and waved my arms hoping someone would wave back.
Throughout the day, Jim and I were offered delicious meals, tea, extra clothes and were given full access to the ship. After eight hours and a good supper I had settled in for the evening when another officer, Jean-Philippe, came down and said, "It's time to go. Right now. There’s a break in the ice."
Before I knew it I was back aboard Explorer. Soon after, I headed up to the bow, looked at the Pierre Radisson ahead of us and waved my arms, hoping someone would wave back.
