The after-breakfast crossing from Oban, on the Scottish mainland, to Craignure, on the Isle of Mull, was on calm seas and with dappled sunlight speckling the green hills of Mull. Craignure is the large ferry terminal for the Caledonian MacBrayne interisland ferries, and it was here we boarded a bus to take us across Mull to the small ferry port of Fionnphort and the tiny ferry to Iona.
Steve had already explained the importance of this little island in his presentation yesterday, but we were not prepared for the simple but memorable beauty of this three-mile by one-mile island. It is just perfect. The focus of our visit was the reconstructed 13th century abbey and the ancient grounds and graveyard surrounding it. Luckily we had arrived well before the hoards of visitors who scour the island every day and this gave Steve and Konia the opportunity to guide us through the grounds and buildings freely. It is indeed a special place and we all feel honoured at having been able to visit this spiritual place.
Back on the bus another Steve, the driver, continued his commentary begun on the way over to Fionnphort. His skillful driving on the single-track road was matched by his vast knowledge of Mull and his eloquent presentation style.
Before arriving back at the ship we took a detour to Duart Castle, seat of the Clan MacLean and home to the current chieftain Sir Lachlan MacLean of MacLean. This too is a relatively recently reconstructed building sitting high on a cliff with commanding views in all directions across to the Scottish mainland and neighbouring islands. We had a guided tour inside this solidly impressive building and could not help but wonder just how comfortable is Sir Lachlan living in his family home?
As soon as we were back on board we sat sail up the Sound of Mull heading for our resting place tonight, Tobermory. This is the biggest town on the island and is famous for its small, curved bay and the brightly painted houses lining its waterfront. A very pleasant backdrop for dinner.
The day though was not over. After dinner we returned to the upstairs lounge where Richard and Sue from Wings Over Mull, a raptor rescue and rehabilitation centre on Mull, had brought along three of their feathered charges for us to marvel over and enjoy. Richard and Sue explained the characteristics of each bird, a barn owl, snowy owl and buzzard, as well as explaining their rescue and rehabilitation work with other birds. An admirable project and one which Lindblad-National Geographic is proud to be associated with.
Tomorrow we leave Mull and sail to the Small Islands of the Inner Hebrides. What a long, strange trip it’s been so far!
