Our magical morning began at 6:00 a.m. with a gentle wake-up call from expedition leader Lucho Verdesoto. We were starting our transit of the scenic Lemaire Channel and it was time to be out on deck or near a window to enjoy the views. In many places the striking cliffs rose straight from the water line and continue up to eventually meet the sharp craggy peaks. In other places glaciers came tumbling down into this narrow passage. Captain Kruess expertly navigated through the many icebergs that were scattered in our path while we took in all we could of this breathtaking wonderland.
The theme of icebergs continued after breakfast with our visit to Booth Island. Here we had Zodiac excursions to the “iceberg graveyard.” The icebergs stranded in this small bay took the shape of buildings, towers, peaks, and arches. The biggest arches with many shades of blue were our favorites. There was plenty of life to be found among the ice too. We watched leopard seals, humpback whales, fleeting glimpses of minke whales, and of course the porpoising penguins. All of them were here for the same reason—summer riches.
When not in a Zodiac we were able to go ashore to hike and enjoy the penguins. All three species of brushtail penguins were nesting on the island together. To go with gentoo and chinstrap penguins we had seen already this week, we added the Adélie penguins. The Adélies are the more formal looking of the three brushtail species, dressed all in black and white.
This afternoon we had time for more exploring, this time at Petermann Island. Here we were able to choose our adventure—a Zodiac cruise or a hike ashore. Both were splendid options. Ashore we hiked to a ridge on the island where Adélie penguins, gentoos, and Antarctic shags nest. The Adélie chicks were the closest to fledging of any we have seen. Several were wandering around with mohawk-like tufts of downy feathers left on the tops of their heads as the only feathers left to molt before they can take to the sea. Antarctic shag chicks are big and nearly ready to fledge as well. At each nest, two or three eager (and giant) chicks begged enthusiastically whenever an adult arrived from a feeding excursion.
The Zodiac adventurers had the fun of going through brash ice and around the island. Several humpback whales were feeding among the ice. Near the shore, one berg had five crabeater seals hauled out onto it. By the time we returned to the ship the atmosphere had turned to gray on gray—gray clouds, gray fog, and light mist all hanging in the air. Our awaiting home, the National Geographic Explorer was still plenty visible and a wonderful warm sight to see as the only color in the landscape.
Tonight the skies are clearing, there is a beautiful sunset in progress, we are headed south with the Antarctic Circle in our sights for tomorrow.
