The barks of California sea lions greeted our early morning outing. The light was bright and golden against the white-frosted tops of the volcanic islets known as Los Islotes. Many of the sea lions draped over the brick-red tuff in deep slumber, while others argued and barked constantly. Several of the males faced each other, standing upright as high as they could on their front flippers, baring their formidable teeth and shaking their heads back and forth in threat displays. These never amount to much now, but in late May and June the land they stand on could have more importance than anything in their lives. These flat areas are favorite places for the local females to loaf and have their pups. The real estate is sought after because it’s close to water and has little commuter traffic that might crush a youngster. Two weeks after the pups are born, estrus will be upon the females and the local male is often the most convenient suitor. It is her choice.
That hectic time of birthing was nine months ago, but some of the pups are still nursing as today’s photo shows. The females have 4 nipples. One is shown. A recent genetic study at these rocky islands showed that 17% of the pups sampled have been adopted. This is surprising, because the female has nothing to gain from the arrangement.
Guests who snorkeled with the enthusiastic pups had firsthand views of how fast, energetic and frisky these little clowns can be. They love to swim full speed at you and then veer off at the last second, possibly trying to see how large your eyes will open before you’re smashed by the incoming missile. Their fast spin on their long axis with a sudden 90-degree turn aimed a few millimeters from your head surely must be more fun for them than it is for us. They also like to slowly approach upside down, quickly jerking their heads repeatedly upward, perhaps daring you to be entertaining or at least do something of interest. How totally inept we are swimming in their beautiful world!
A wind from the north encouraged us to find protection in the lee of Isla San José. We hiked in a little canyon there that is the perfect spot for our trip’s first exposure to the Sonoran Desert. The sandy arroyo winds up through mesquite, ironwood, palo verde, and the stunning white-barked palo blanco. It’s level at the start, so it matches any hiking abilities. Farther up, the canyon narrows into a slot that’s only eight feet across and about 25 feet high. Those on longer hikes made it up to a ridge that had great views of the other side of the island, the beach ear-marked for our evening barbeque, and the Sierra Giganta range to the west.
Upon our return, we made our way along the beach to a half circle of chairs and were greeted with cold drinks followed by a delicious barbeque dinner. As the sun set behind the peninsula, a small fire lit up the smiling faces of those listening to Jack Swenson on the guitar. Photographers and others had a short session on photographing at night. Except for the ship there were no other lights anywhere in sight. The stars illuminated the dark sky, and fiery Mars rose behind us. On this night the world belonged to just us.
