After cruising southward during the night, the captain steered National Geographic Explorer into Andvord Bay and we arrived right on time at our morning destination of Neko Harbour. After another delicious breakfast we wrapped up in our layers and donned our woolly hats once more before quickly boarding the Zodiacs and heading ashore.
The scene was spectacular. Gentoo penguins were nesting, many with chicks growing older by the minute. We gained comical and fascinating observations of the chicks chasing after their parents for food, a behavior that gives the second chick a better chance at getting fed. The dominant chick is less likely to give chase if it already has a full stomach of regurgitated fish or krill.
We were able to climb to a superb lookout where we were treated to panoramic views over the glacier lined bay and the calm clear bay studded by icebergs and surfacing minke whales. In fact that scene was so glorious one young gentleman on board went down on one knee and offered his hand in marriage to his surprised girlfriend. Of course the answer was yes, and later on board all were toasting to their future together.
After the landing we jumped back into the Zodiacs and took a tour of the bay. Every iceberg seems to be more beautiful than the last, and many smaller floes had crabeater seals as temporary residents. Some of us were also lucky and gained some close-up views of the minke whales. The smell of their breath is nothing less than awful and their nickname as the “stinky minke” seems well justified.
In the afternoon we arrived at Danco Island and here we had the option of kayaking, a Zodiac cruise and heading ashore to visit another colony of gentoo penguins and climbing the hill for another sweeping vista of this icy wilderness.
Many penguins were porpoising and playing around the kayaks, and we encountered Antarctic terns, kelp gulls and Weddell seals on our travels. Onshore we delighted in the antics of the penguins making there way up the steep-sided slope along well worn “penguin highways.” Across the bay we heard a screech of delight as the whale researchers, after much frustrated effort in the last days, successfully tagged a minke whale with a satellite and dive tracker.
Back on board we were treated to another entertaining and excellent recap on diverse subjects such as cookie cutter sharks and penguin moulting. The excitement continues with more coastal cruising tonight before the expedition leader allows us just perhaps a few hours to charge our batteries, both our own and those belonging in our cameras!
