National Geographic Sea Lion departed the dock in Juneau at midnight and cruised southward in Stephens Passage. Whenever we see whales before breakfast, it’s a good day, and it was a great way to start this expedition. Numerous humpback whales were surfacing with audible blows, and showing their flukes as they dove to depth. It seemed like a graceful, slow motion water ballet, everywhere we looked. We saw one whale in the distance throwing its flukes and slapping its tail on the surface (lob-tailing). So we approached for a better look and it continued the behavior. Before we reluctantly came in for breakfast, there were a couple breaches, where the whales jumped into the air and came down with a massive splash!
Tiny marbled murrelets were the star avian attraction. These puffin relatives “fly” under water to catch fish but depend on big, old, mossy trees for nest sites. Both the ocean and the forest need to be protected for this rare bird to flourish.
The remainder of the morning was taken up with briefings about expedition landing crafts, hiking, bears, and kayaking. As we cruised into Endicott Arm, Jeff gave a presentation to introduce us to digital photography, followed by hands-on group sessions to get us comfortable with our cameras. Then there was a chance to practice with binoculars, cameras and spotting scope when there was a young black bear spotted on the shore. Its interesting behavior included repeated forays into the intertidal zone to pick up some seaweed and bring it up into the forest.
After lunch we arrived at the end of the fjord and prepared for expedition landing craft tours up to the face of Dawes Glacier. We bundled up, as a cold katabatic wind was descending off the glacier. Spilling from the Stikine Icefield, the Dawes tumbles to tidewater and continues below sea level. We were thrilled to witness masses of ice depart from the glacier front and fall into the water with a huge splash and tremendous roar – “white thunder” – resulting in icebergs of all sizes and shapes. Harbor seals and harbor porpoises teased us with quick appearances. Seals on ice mimicked the colorful background rocks. We were visited by friendly “Vikings” bearing hot chocolate and spirits to warm us inside and out.
Back on board we tasted a varied selection of Northwest Pacific wines and sumptuous hors d’oeuvres. At the end of recap another black bear was spotted on the shore. We had a quick viewing before enjoying dinner in the dining room.
Whales, bears and seals, oh my… what a day!
