Westmann Islands, 7/12/2022, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Arctic
National Geographic Explorer took us past the steaming Reykjanes Peninsula in the wee hours of the morning to Heimaey, where we climbed Eldfell. This volcano was formed during a recent eruption (1973), and we experienced the warmth that still emerges from the ground there. The afternoon was filled with marine wildlife encounters, including killer whales and nesting gannets. We also had a close look at Surtsey, Iceland’s youngest island.
Conor Ryan is a congenital ecologist. His career began in the late 1980s, when he developed a keen interest in intertidal ecology, undertaking almost daily field trips to the seashore across from his home in Cobh, Ireland. Though he logged significan...
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Our morning visit to Flatey was such a delightful start to our day. As the Zodiacs dropped us off at our landing point, the tide was dropping, exposing an incredible forest of seaweed draping the intertidal rocks nearby. Our senses were awakened by the noise of coastal birds, parents actively to-ing and fro-ing as they fed along the coastal shallows and gathered food for their hungry and eager chicks. We took a walk along the shore to some little cliffs where we had fantastic views of puffins, eider ducks, mallards, fulmars, arctic terns, and redshanks, to name but a few. Flatey, meaning ‘Flat Island,’ is one of the largest islands in a group of thousands in Breidafjord, and its location meant that in the Middle Ages it was considered a very important trading post. There is a little church in Flatey that was built in 1926; here we got a peek inside at some of the beautiful artwork by the artist Baltasar, a Spaniard who received Icelandic citizenship. The Icelandic leg of our adventure has been full of musical delights, and Flatey did not disappoint. At the Old Freezer House on Flatey, Hafdis Huld, the current number one selling artist in Iceland, treated us to a private musical performance of some of her most well-known songs. We spent the afternoon making our way south along Iceland’s western coast, and how exciting it turned out to be! We spotted a huge and playful pod of pilot whales and many white-beaked dolphins leaping in the air. What a wildlife spectacle! Before dinner, we settled into cocktail hour with an eclectic array of mini presentations by our naturalists for our final recap of the expedition. We are making our way to the south of Iceland for our final exciting day on this incredible adventure.
National Geographic Explorer has been cruising all night, making its way westward across the top of Iceland. The sea is very nice with occasional humpback whales and plenty of seabirds. As we sail, a couple of lectures punctuate the morning. During an early lunch, we dock at the town of Ísafjörður. There are a few options here, including just exploring the town. I opt for the Arctic Fox Center and the Valagíl hike. The arctic fox is the only indigenous land mammal in Iceland. They are not liked by the farmers because they have a taste for chickens and lambs. For many years now, arctic foxes have been trapped on the island because there is no more sea ice. We get to meet one of the very cute foxes and learn about their history and biology. There is also coffee and Icelandic ‘wedding cake,’ made from local rhubarb. It is very good! After the Arctic Fox Center, we drive to the mouth of a wide valley. There are many waterfalls feeding the lively stream in the center of the valley. Our mission is to reach one of the waterfalls, maybe a bit over a mile away. It is hard for me because there are so many flowers to distract me. The gently sloping sides of the valley are boggy. It is easy to tell that the slow-moving water, under the bog vegetation, has become acidic and anerobic. The rocks where the water emerges from under the boggy vegetation are colored a rusty-red due to iron oxide (rust). In the anerobic environment, iron becomes soluble until it reaches the air with oxygen again. Several species of bacteria take advantage of the energy they can gain by oxidizing the iron. The bacteria cause what looks like an oil slick on the water surface. The acidic water also depletes minerals needed for plant growth, providing a habitat for plants with a different plan. Low nutrient bogs provide a perfect environment for carnivorous plants. That is, plants that get nutrients from their insect prey. There are two species of carnivorous plants here: the butterwort and the sundew. Both plants have sticky leaves, and they attract, trap, and digest small insects. After an early dinner, we visit Vigur Island. Here, safe shelter is provided for nesting eider ducks. In return, the eider is used as soft down for pillows and comforters. For us, there is a tour of the island facilities and hopefully more rhubarb treats! Photo caption and photographer: A carnivorous sundew with pretty gland-tipped hairs that catch insects. Photo by Dennis Cornejo
